Magical Monarch Butterfly Migration (1 Good)

Monarch Butterflies drying out their wings

One of the reasons we came to Mexico was to have the once in a lifetime experience of witnessing the Monarch Butterfly migration that commences in mid November until March. Every winter, 150 million butterflies migrate from the Great Lakes in the US and Canada to the pine forests of Michoacan, the region to the west of Mexico City. It is astonishing to believe that the butterflies cover 4500km in four to five weeks to reach a unique micro climate in the pine forests, ready for winter.

The cool temperatures at 3000m help to conserve energy, the trees provide shelter and the fog laden air prevents the butterflies from drying out. The butterflies would normally die after 8 weeks, but to migrate and breed, they enter a phase which allows them to live for 6 months. They breed in the spring where their caterpillars feed on milkweed, before they die and their off spring return to the US. Nature is always a source of constant amazement - to think that their off spring must have the migration map genetically imprinted as how can they know where to fly back to?

With our limited Spanish, we needed to find out how to get to the 'Santuario de la Mariposa Monarca'. We based ourselves in Zitacuaro, a small town scattered over low hills at 1900m. From speaking to the hotel owners, who were incredibly friendly and helpful, we pieced together the information as we wouldn't have a map, which always seems simple at the time but in practice becomes another adventure into the unknown. The hotel owners even phoned their friend, who is a guide at the butterfly sanctuary, to find out what the best time was during the day to see the butterflies take flight.

We set off early to find a taxi collectivo to the village of Ocampo, which was meant to stop roughly two blocks away by a building with a sign for "Hielo Nacional", but was actually a parking lot with a bench. We were expecting a minibus collectivo, but it was a taxi. What should have been a 25 min journey turned into 45 min one due to numerous unexpected stops. Our taxi driver decided to order tacos for breakfast and eat them while driving, the cheese dripping down all over his top, stopped for petrol and then allowed another passenger to fill up a large gas canister which he promptly popped into the boot.

We arrived in Ocampo to find the main plaza had been cordoned off by police and we were meant to be dropped off at the Ocampo mercado which the taxi couldn't drive up to. Sensing an opportunity, our taxi driver tried to tell us in Spanish that the only way to get to El Rosario would be in his taxi (of course) at the exorbitant price of 250 pesos, as there would be no collectivos running from Ocampo. Edward was having none of it, so we walked to the main plaza to discover that there was a cheerleading/dance competition in full flow and most of the villagers were having a fiesta, which was why the road was closed and all the girls we encountered were wearing flashy leotards.

At this point, we had a tremendous stroke of luck. A collectivo (battered minibus) happened to be passing and we asked the driver if he was heading to El Rosario and he was! This part of the journey should have taken 40 min up a winding single track road, but again we were thwarted halfway by a procession of children in school uniform. This celebration blocked the main road, but our collectivo driver was a determined man and he took advice from the other passengers and turned onto a dirt track.

School Children Procession on the way to El Rosario from Ocampo

The older guy next to me crossed himself, which was when I noticed a sharp, mud and grass incline up ahead. "Only landrovers can make it up that hill," exclaimed Thomas and I admit even I've watched enough episodes of Top Gear to be in agreement. I wasn't entirely sure how a minibus without four wheel drive was going to make it up there and whether the minibus would end up stuck or overturn. The older guy crossed himself again, which didn't exactly inspire confidence.

Somehow, the minibus bumped and swayed from side to side to make it up the track, continued to lurch over the mud through small holdings, passing turkeys, chickens and a collection of sheep on the way. We ended up by a field of corn and ploughed back through local's back yards to find the road again.

Slight off road diversion taken by collectivo driver, Ocampo to El Rosario

Slowly, but surely we wound up through the pine forest, climbing ever higher until we reached El Rosario. The sanctuary have guides to accompany you to ensure that the butterflies and their environment are not harmed by tourists. Surrounded by Mexican families, young and old, we hiked ever upwards through the forest to a height of 3000m. Finally, we were among the butterflies, thousands and thousands of them; the branches of the trees turning reddish brown from all of the butterflies resting, drying their wings.

Monarch Butterflies weighing down the pine tree branches

Monarch Butterflies weighing down the pine tree branches, drying out their wings

When the sun appears through the clouds, the butterflies take flight, a magical display of fluttering wings against the bright blue sky.

Monarch Butterflies take flight

Monarch Butterflies taking flight during sunny spells

I could have stayed amidst the butterflies in the forest for hours - there was an overwhelming sense of calmness here and it was so beautiful, it made my heart sing. Maybe in another life I had lived in a little cabin in the pine forest, with just the elements and nature to battle (maybe young whippersnapper Meg, the backpacker from San Christobel, and her crystals were rubbing off on me). I was extremely privileged to be able witness such a glorious sight, but my heart became heavy with sadness too. Loss of pine forest habitat effects their numbers and as always it is humans who are the main threat. However, the web is filled with blogs from people who are planting milkweed to encourage the butterfly breeding so there is always hope. Everyone needs a little magic in their lives.

Thomas made it his mission to save as many Monarch butterflies as possible if they were stranded on the path. You are not allowed to touch them, but our guide showed him how to lift them up with twigs and carry them back to safety. "If I only manage to save one butterfly, it will make a difference", observed Thomas. It always makes a difference, it doesn't matter how small.

Thomas takes a stranded butterfly back to the forest